Well, my trip is coming to an end. I said goodbye to everyone at the hospital today. . . I was on the verge of tears (I'm a sucker for goodbyes). Someone asked me what I will miss the most about Huaraz. I had to say it was the hospital. . and not just the hospital obviously, but the people who worked there. I will always remeber how Pilar, one of the nurses, went around secretly putting condoms in everyone's pockets one day. I came home with a purse full of condoms and other random items. Although my nickname was Rebeccita to everyone in Emergency, Pilar named me "Barbie" in Pediatrics and she would then call everyone else "Barney" (purple dinosaur). She was always good for a laugh.
Tomorrow I go to Lima to meet with Karina for one last fun night. She, the party girl, wants to go out on the town and on the following day she wants to take me to her club! After the club it is back to the airport for me. Should be a good time, up until the airport part! I'll let you know how it goes.
Friday, September 21, 2007
Sunday, September 16, 2007
Delfina, Way Inn Lodge Boulders, y Hatun Machay
I've been a bit of a slacker lately with the blog . . . lots to catch up on. So I finally managed to find the sweet Delfina. The following day after meeting with her cows I found her in Huanchac. She was very appreciative of the gifts. We hung out with her cows for a bit and I snapped a few shots of her, and then we walked into Huaraz together since she needed to buy some food for her cows. The walk is about 40 minutes to the mercado in Huaraz. She discussed how her life is much harder since she doesn't have a husband or kids but that she just never wanted to be with any of the men that she knew. So Delfina does it all on her own - cares for her cows, sells herbs in the market, grows corn and potatoes - everyday. She is a tiny, sweet woman with more strength and independence than I can even begin to comprehend.
I also managed to go bouldering at a place about 30 minutes away in a taxi with Cesar and Jaime. The place was absolutely beautiful with enough rocks to keep me happy for years. It is up high near the mountains, which means amazing views. It was hard to put the camera down to enjoy the climbing. At the end of the day we walked back to town which took about 90 minutes or so. It was actually a really nice walk, despite being in the dark, because we walked down a walkway/trail that passes through all of the towns between there and Huaraz. I was able to get a glimpse of rural living and life outside of Huaraz.
On my birthday, back in the begining of my trip I met a woman, Luciana, and her friend at a bar. We spent most of that night dancing together, but I had mentioned to her that I wanted to go to Hatun Machay before I left Peru. At the time, I didn't realize how lucky I was to have met her (funny how, as cheesy as it sounds, some things seem to happen for a reason). This last Thursday I went to Hatun Machay with Luciana, her boyfriend Andres, and one of his employees/friends, Hernan. All three of them are from Argentina. Andres, after falling in love with Hatun Machay, decided to build a rustic "refugio" for travelers who wanted to come to the area to climb or hike. Hatun Machay is probably one of the most magical places I have ever been to in my life. It is a stone forest that I have yet to see the end of, even after hiking for hours. You can wander through the area with towers of stone above you, making what looks like a castle. "Hatun Machay" in Quechua means "Big Cave", and here there are many, filled with 14,00 year old pictographs, carvings, and paintings. It feels old, sacred, and peaceful. There are a few people that live amongst the stone forest in very modest homes made of rock walls and straw for a roof. The homes tend to be the size of a very small room, which I can imagine helps to keep them warm in this very cold place (4200 m). Andres, before building the refugio, had discussed the matter with the few locals in the area to make sure they were okay with the idea. He is also doing his part to preserve the place and serve the community there. Luciana and I ran into one of the locals (photo above) who is only 22 years old but seems to have a maturity and wisdom about her that no American 22 year old has ever had. Hmm. . . I can't really find words to express this place. Andres enjoys spending his days putting up routes on these sharp volcanic towers. He has developed a lot of routes already but this place has an endless amount of potential. The refugio is almost completely built, after more than a year of construction. There are a handful of employees working to finish the bathrooms (they ran out of bricks) and a few other odds and ends. The place is very welcoming with bunk beds upstairs and a large kitchen with wooden tables downstairs. The only problem is getting out once you are in. . . I was lucky to have a ride back to Huaraz with Andres and Luciana, but as you can imagine there aren't a lot of people coming out that direction (Andres made a road down to the Refugio off of a dirt road up in the mountains). So you have to be flexible and hope someone comes in on a day you are trying to get out so you can hop on their taxi, or you walk out for a few hours with the gear you brought in, or you wait (which isn't really such a bad thing now is it?).
With only one week left, it is back to the hospital for me and maybe some more climbing in afternoons.
I also managed to go bouldering at a place about 30 minutes away in a taxi with Cesar and Jaime. The place was absolutely beautiful with enough rocks to keep me happy for years. It is up high near the mountains, which means amazing views. It was hard to put the camera down to enjoy the climbing. At the end of the day we walked back to town which took about 90 minutes or so. It was actually a really nice walk, despite being in the dark, because we walked down a walkway/trail that passes through all of the towns between there and Huaraz. I was able to get a glimpse of rural living and life outside of Huaraz.
On my birthday, back in the begining of my trip I met a woman, Luciana, and her friend at a bar. We spent most of that night dancing together, but I had mentioned to her that I wanted to go to Hatun Machay before I left Peru. At the time, I didn't realize how lucky I was to have met her (funny how, as cheesy as it sounds, some things seem to happen for a reason). This last Thursday I went to Hatun Machay with Luciana, her boyfriend Andres, and one of his employees/friends, Hernan. All three of them are from Argentina. Andres, after falling in love with Hatun Machay, decided to build a rustic "refugio" for travelers who wanted to come to the area to climb or hike. Hatun Machay is probably one of the most magical places I have ever been to in my life. It is a stone forest that I have yet to see the end of, even after hiking for hours. You can wander through the area with towers of stone above you, making what looks like a castle. "Hatun Machay" in Quechua means "Big Cave", and here there are many, filled with 14,00 year old pictographs, carvings, and paintings. It feels old, sacred, and peaceful. There are a few people that live amongst the stone forest in very modest homes made of rock walls and straw for a roof. The homes tend to be the size of a very small room, which I can imagine helps to keep them warm in this very cold place (4200 m). Andres, before building the refugio, had discussed the matter with the few locals in the area to make sure they were okay with the idea. He is also doing his part to preserve the place and serve the community there. Luciana and I ran into one of the locals (photo above) who is only 22 years old but seems to have a maturity and wisdom about her that no American 22 year old has ever had. Hmm. . . I can't really find words to express this place. Andres enjoys spending his days putting up routes on these sharp volcanic towers. He has developed a lot of routes already but this place has an endless amount of potential. The refugio is almost completely built, after more than a year of construction. There are a handful of employees working to finish the bathrooms (they ran out of bricks) and a few other odds and ends. The place is very welcoming with bunk beds upstairs and a large kitchen with wooden tables downstairs. The only problem is getting out once you are in. . . I was lucky to have a ride back to Huaraz with Andres and Luciana, but as you can imagine there aren't a lot of people coming out that direction (Andres made a road down to the Refugio off of a dirt road up in the mountains). So you have to be flexible and hope someone comes in on a day you are trying to get out so you can hop on their taxi, or you walk out for a few hours with the gear you brought in, or you wait (which isn't really such a bad thing now is it?).
With only one week left, it is back to the hospital for me and maybe some more climbing in afternoons.
Monday, September 10, 2007
Los Olivos y La Vaca de Delphina
On Sunday I managed to make it out to a new bouldering area called Los Olivos. Ironically, the area is right next to the house that I went to for the Santa Rosa fiesta. I just couldn't see the boulders down by the creek. The boulder is very steep and very hard; I loved it. There were a lot of local guys climbing there which made for some great spotting and a nice atmosphere. There was a woman washing some wool in the creek next to the boulder - pounding, stretching, and rinsing over and over again. It seemed odd to have all these men bouldering and this woman slaving away in the creek just 15 feet away. I wonder if it speaks to some of the gender roles. . . hmm.
Today after work I went to Huanchac with some essentials and some treats for Delphina. When I arrived people were surprised that a gringa was looking for her and inquired as to why. They told me that she would be in Huaraz until 6 that day; it was only 4:30. I climbed to the top of a boulder with my book and sat while large drops of rain fell from the clouds, briefly. It was lovely. I then went down and hung out with her three cows. Just after six I decided to hop on a taxi that was passing through. The woman in the taxi with me knew Delphina. I asked about her. The woman repeated that she chose not to have a husband. . . that she just never wanted one. I mentioned how it must make life a bit harder in some ways for her. The woman agreed. We laughed about how independent she is. On the ride we passed Delphina, walking up to the ridge with a big, heavy bundle of stuff, but I couldn't stop because the woman next to me was going to Huaraz and I don't think the taxi driver would have been fond of the idea of taking her back to Huanchac. I'll go back tomorrow.
Today after work I went to Huanchac with some essentials and some treats for Delphina. When I arrived people were surprised that a gringa was looking for her and inquired as to why. They told me that she would be in Huaraz until 6 that day; it was only 4:30. I climbed to the top of a boulder with my book and sat while large drops of rain fell from the clouds, briefly. It was lovely. I then went down and hung out with her three cows. Just after six I decided to hop on a taxi that was passing through. The woman in the taxi with me knew Delphina. I asked about her. The woman repeated that she chose not to have a husband. . . that she just never wanted one. I mentioned how it must make life a bit harder in some ways for her. The woman agreed. We laughed about how independent she is. On the ride we passed Delphina, walking up to the ridge with a big, heavy bundle of stuff, but I couldn't stop because the woman next to me was going to Huaraz and I don't think the taxi driver would have been fond of the idea of taking her back to Huanchac. I'll go back tomorrow.
Saturday, September 8, 2007
La Sala de Emergencia y Escalando Con Cesar y Jaime
The hospital has been treating me well. I'm getting a ton of experience and was able to work in the ER for 12 hours on Thursday. One man was rolled in that day, no breathing and no pulse. They did CPR for about 40 minutes and then finally gave up. Pedro was only 54 years old. In the first ten minutes I was so hopeful. . . desperately watching the machine to see if his heart would start back up again. It was amazing see the dozen or so people working together to help him, taking turns doing CPR. It was hard to see his wife come in later that day to be confronted with the awful news. I think I may have felt sadder for her than I did for him. Despite so many differences in various cultures there so many similarities. . . hardship, death, smiles, love, play, saddness, laughter, friendship, family. I find we are more similar than we are different.
So I managed to deal with the inevitable. . . I had one awful night of stomach illness two nights ago. I spent the the majority of the day in bed yesterday. Last night Zarela (the woman who runs the hostel I am staying in) wanted me to come to the living room to introduce me to two local climbers, Jaime and Cesar. I staggered downstairs to meet them and was invited to go bouldering with them the following day. Today the three of us went climbing at an area only the locals know about. I don't think I could get back to the same place if I tried since these boulders are quite off the beaten path. The granite boulders were great despite being a bit spread out. I was a bit tired, not surprising given the day before, but I managed and it was fantastic. We plan to go to another place tomorrow that I've been wanting to check out, Los Olivos. I'll keep you posted.
So I managed to deal with the inevitable. . . I had one awful night of stomach illness two nights ago. I spent the the majority of the day in bed yesterday. Last night Zarela (the woman who runs the hostel I am staying in) wanted me to come to the living room to introduce me to two local climbers, Jaime and Cesar. I staggered downstairs to meet them and was invited to go bouldering with them the following day. Today the three of us went climbing at an area only the locals know about. I don't think I could get back to the same place if I tried since these boulders are quite off the beaten path. The granite boulders were great despite being a bit spread out. I was a bit tired, not surprising given the day before, but I managed and it was fantastic. We plan to go to another place tomorrow that I've been wanting to check out, Los Olivos. I'll keep you posted.
Wednesday, September 5, 2007
Alex and Delphina
I've been enjoying the hospital as I already mentioned, but I have come to adore this one boy, Alex, who was recovering from surgery on his hip. Such a sweet heart. He is always smiling and hanging out with the nurses, helping out or getting in the way; either way we all love him. I bring the kids chocolates every day and Alex always comes up smiling and asking for another one. I make him wait (otherwise he'd have chocolate every ten minutes) and then later tell him it's time for his medicina and hand him a chocolate. His smile gets even bigger and brighter. Sad thing for me is that he got well after two weeks or so of being in the hospital, so he went home before I could even take a picture. Cute little Alex, 10 years old.
Today after work I rushed over to Huanchac to get a little bouldering in before any afternoon rain. A local woman, Delphina, came up to me at one point and mentioned that she needed pills. I spoke with her briefly about it, but I was surprised that she didn't ask for money. I kept bouldering. Later she came to get one of her cows from near the boulders and she sat down next to me. We talked for about a half hour about life. She is 64 years old and never married and has no kids (very unusual in Peru). Assuming most Peruvian women want to get married, I dared to ask why, since she is so lovely and sweet. She said she never wanted to marry and that she likes to be "solita". She is a hard worker - cares for 3 cows, grows corn and potatoes, and does all the work of a family on her own. All this hard work has caused some aches and pains in her body, but she doesn't have money to see a doctor. After talking for some time she walked away with her cows. When I was leaving I struck up another conversation with her in the field and told her I'd bring her a few things to Huanchac if she needed anything. Gas was the biggest need, but I think I´ll surprise her with some chocolates, vino tinto, and some naproxen as well. She said to ask around and people would direct me to her house.
Today after work I rushed over to Huanchac to get a little bouldering in before any afternoon rain. A local woman, Delphina, came up to me at one point and mentioned that she needed pills. I spoke with her briefly about it, but I was surprised that she didn't ask for money. I kept bouldering. Later she came to get one of her cows from near the boulders and she sat down next to me. We talked for about a half hour about life. She is 64 years old and never married and has no kids (very unusual in Peru). Assuming most Peruvian women want to get married, I dared to ask why, since she is so lovely and sweet. She said she never wanted to marry and that she likes to be "solita". She is a hard worker - cares for 3 cows, grows corn and potatoes, and does all the work of a family on her own. All this hard work has caused some aches and pains in her body, but she doesn't have money to see a doctor. After talking for some time she walked away with her cows. When I was leaving I struck up another conversation with her in the field and told her I'd bring her a few things to Huanchac if she needed anything. Gas was the biggest need, but I think I´ll surprise her with some chocolates, vino tinto, and some naproxen as well. She said to ask around and people would direct me to her house.
Monday, September 3, 2007
Hospital de Apoyo Victor Ramos Guardia
Alas! I'm working in a Hospital! I had the great opportunity of getting to help out in the emergency room on my first day. I will spare you all the gruesome details of the day for now. Doctora Benitez, the jefe of the hospital, has been so accomdating and welcoming, and she has yet to even glance at my resume! Everyone, the laundry room employees, patients, families, nurses, and doctors have been so kind and patient with me. One doctor has given me the new nickname of "Rebeccita". Trying to communicate in Spanish has been a big challenge for me and now I have a whole new set of medical terminology to decipher. I work Monday through Saturday 8AM to 1PM, which gives me enough time to climb at some of the local crags in the afternoons, weather permitting. This week I'm working in pediatria and next week emergencia again. The facility is a bit old and is in desperate need of, well, a lot of things. There isn't even any soap in the emgergency room bathroom for the nurses to use. Gloves are only used when absolutely needed and the hospital doesn't provide them; the patient buys them at the pharmacy. The pediatric clinic is actually much nicer than the rest of the hospital. It was remodeled this year and is a bright, clean, nice facility. They even have foam soap there.
I went climbing after work today, but after about an hour, dark clouds rolled in and once the thunder started I packed up. While hiking back on the road I got a ride with a collectivo (minivans packed with about 20 locals. . . no exaggeration) back into Huaraz. Rain, thunder, and lightning followed for about an hour or two; the rainy season has begun.
I went climbing after work today, but after about an hour, dark clouds rolled in and once the thunder started I packed up. While hiking back on the road I got a ride with a collectivo (minivans packed with about 20 locals. . . no exaggeration) back into Huaraz. Rain, thunder, and lightning followed for about an hour or two; the rainy season has begun.
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